31 Eighth Ave at Jane St. (212-675-2526).
Subway: A, C, E to 14th St; L to Eighth Ave.
Mon-Fri noon-1am; Sat, Sun 11am-1am.
Average main course: $12. AmEx, MC, V.

Besides catching Corner Bistro spillover, this honest neighborhood joint is good for combating a cold with an Irish coffee, or functioning as an air-conditioned, beer-soaked refuge during the dog days of summer. Tavern on Jane is brown on the outside and dim on the inside, with wood beams, a big TV behind the bar and classic rock on the stereo. Along with steaks and burgers, you can order fancier food-a beet-and-arugula salad or a grilled-tuna club sandwich with Wasabi. The dishes are gratifying when paired with a drink and an order of fries.

While nobody knows who was literally the first to put a chopped-beef patty between bread, it’s generally agreed that America’s love affair with the hamburger dates back to the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis, when a Texan named Fletcher “Old Dave” Davis created a small sensation by selling them on the midway.

A hundred years later, the burger is booming in New York. Whether you’re after a fast-food quick fix, a late-night pub meal or a luxe version complete with fois gras and a double-digit price tag, the city is increasingly loaded with options. In honor of the burger’s centennial, The Post tracked down some of the city’s best, researched over a few gut-punishing days. We’ve skipped the high-end models, and instead looked far and wide for the kind of everyman burgers that would have made Old Dave proud.

OK, let’s get this out of the way: For our money, the finest burger in the city is served at Peter Luger (178 Broadway in Brooklyn; [718] 387-7400). And at $6.95, it’s not only the best burger in the city, it’s one of the best food deals period.

Many who flock to the city’s top steakhouse to feast on aged porterhouse overlook the burger, which is only served until 3 p.m. A 10 oz. beauty made from chuck mixed with ground-porterhouse trimmings, it is served on a perfect sesame roll adorned only with a thick slab of raw onion and for a dollar extra, a small handful of thick, crispy fries.

Luger’s infernal broilers give the exterior a rugged crust, while the inside remains lush and juicy, and the meat has a depth of rich, beefy flavor. Ordered medium-rare, it came in decidedly on the rare end of the spectrum, which is exactly the right way to eat this one.

The barbecue restaurant Blue Smoke (116 E. 27th St.; [212] 447-7733) one-ups Luger by putting three cuts of beef in its burger – chuck, sirloin and brisket. It’s a winning combination that makes for a hefty patty with a nice char from the grill and a succulent interior, accompanied by some nicely seasoned shoestring fries.

At $10.95, it came a perfect medium-rare on a brioche roll with raw onion, a few leaves of red-leaf lettuce, some nice ripe tomato and best of all, a half-dozen slices of Blue Smoke’s excellent house-made sweet pickles.

New York’s Irish bars have inflicted a lot of rubbery corned beef on barflies, but they’re also the source of some seriously tasty burgers. Chief among these is Donovan’s (5724 Roosevelt Ave. at 58th Street, [718] 429-9339), a pleasant pub in the shadow of the 7 train tracks in Woodside, Queens.

Served on a garden-variety bun that’s no match for the hefty slab of juicy, loose-knit beef, the Donovan’s burger ($6.50 with cheese and fries) is a beautifully messy affair that requires a handful of napkins. Two things ought to accompany this burger – an expertly poured Guinness and a wondrous pile of sweet, buttery sauteed onions. The fries are weak, and the tomato slices are pale and lifeless, but believe us, you won’t care.

In Manhattan, the star is Molly’s (287 Third Ave., between 22nd and 23rd streets; [212] 889-3361), a dark bar with sawdust on the floor that serves a behemoth burger. Sauteed onions are a key ingredient here too, though they have a darker flavor than those at Donovan’s.

It doesn’t quite match Molly’s, but you won’t go wrong at McHale’s (750 Eighth Ave., at 46th Street; [212] 997-8885), a Theater District tavern that serves a gut-busting burger. If you’re a lover of bacon burgers, this is your place – their version comes piled with it. This old-school barroom is a great alternative to the tourist haunts that riddle Times Square, and it’s open late, no doubt to the gratification of many a hungry stagehand.

In Brooklyn, another good bet is Skinflints in Bay Ridge (7902 Fifth Ave., at 79th Street; [718] 745-1116), a gorgeous old bar with tin ceilings and stained-glass windows. The char-grilled cheeseburger here ($6.75) is leaner than its counterparts above, and a bit too dense, but it’s served on a wonderfully chewy oversized English muffin with good skin-on fries.

For a more rarified bar-burger experience, in terms of both the cuisine and the surroundings, there’s Rare Bar & Grill in Murray Hill’s Shelburne Hotel (303 Lexington Ave.; [212] 481-1999). Here, $21.50 will buy a burger made with Kobe beef or topped with a slab of fois gras. There’s also a crab-and-shrimp burger, and truffle butter is offered as a topping for an extra $5.

We kept it simple, though, with the half-pound “Rare Classic” ($7.50, $1.50 with cheese, fries are $3.50). The beef (chuck ground every hour, says the menu) is top-notch and relatively lean – the only drawback here is the oversized brioche roll, which overwhelms the 8 ounce patty.

On West Fourth Street in the Village, head toward the Corner Bistro, where crowds gather for the celebrated fist-sized cheeseburgers – but then skip the line and cross the street to Tavern on Jane (31 Eighth Ave.; [212] 675-2526). That’s the advice of Mr. Cutlets, the author of “Meat Me in Manhattan: A Carnivore’s Guide to New York,” who swears the tavern’s burgers are a cut above those of its celebrated neighbor.

“It’s the most perfectly constructed of the city’s big bar burgers,” he says. “It’s similar in its succulence to the place across the street, but it’s bigger, and the meat is better. And no one knows about it.”

Continuing his contrarian streak, Mr. Cutlets also champions the burgers at Veselka (144 Second Ave., between Eighth and Ninth streets; [212] 228-9682), the 24-hour East Village Ukranian diner better known for borscht and pierogies. He gives their “exquisitely proportioned” burger his top rating – “It’s almost in a class by itself,” he says.

In Hell’s Kitchen, Island Burgers and Shakes (766 Ninth Ave.; [212] 307-7934]) is a sliver of a restaurant that turns out big, beefy burgers ($7.50) that smack of the charcoal grill. Two caveats: there are serious lines at peak hours, and no fries, as the tiny kitchen can’t accomodate deep fryers.

On the trendier side, there’s the Meatpacking District’s Pop Burger (58-60 Ninth Ave. between 14th and 15th streets, [212] 414-8686), with a food counter out front and a sleek cocktail lounge hidden in the back. Here $5 buys a pair of miniature burgers that come domed by shiny brown rolls.

These aren’t White Castle sliders, though – they’re round and thick, adorned with cheese, tomato, shredded lettuce and a mayonnaise-based sauce. Ordered medium-rare, ours were overdone and thus a bit dry, but they were satisfying nonetheless. Pop gets extra points for the oily Belgian-style fries.

If it’s a slider-style burger you’re after, you’ll find an exemplary version at Schnack, on the western fringe of Carroll Gardens (122 Union St.; [718] 855-2879), where superb little 1.5-ounce “Schnackies” can be had for a buck apiece. The rolls are fresh, and the mustardy “Schnack sauce” adds a nice kick. Don’t forget to order a side of their outstanding onion rings.

Where Manhattan sliders are concerned, Jim Leff, the food writer who founded the Chowhound Web site (www.chowhound.com), recommends the “robustly beefy” versions at Patriot Saloon (110 Chambers St.; [212] 748-1162), a beer hall whose menu offers only three items – burgers ($1), fries ($1) and onion rings ($1.50), all of them “perfect,” says Leff.

“It’s hard to cook a burger that flat – there’s an extremely narrow window of opportunity between juicy and dry, and the cook there absolutely nails it,” he says.

To try one of the city’s more unusual burgers in both name and style – and one of its more obscure – head for the First-Way Deli in the West Farms section of The Bronx (1030 E. Tremont Ave., off Cross-Bronx Expressway; [718] 620-2300). An otherwise unremarkable bodega nestled under the West Farms Square/E. Tremont Ave. stop on the 2/5 line, it’s famous locally for its oddly monikered “Murder Burger.”

The Murder Burger’s thick patty is vaguely meatloafish, with a smattering of ingredients including eggs, adobo seasoning and Worcestershire sauce. At a half-pound, dressed in lettuce, tomato, onions, and a special sauce, it’s a satisfying meal – and at $4.75 with fries and a soda, a cheap one.

Tavern on Jane probably owes much of its business to Bistro spillover, located as it is across the street. But its not merely a serviceable option: They have an eclectic menu that includes a grilled yellowfin tuna club ($10.95) and sautéed veal pillard with artichoke hearts ($15.95) along with a full complement of draft beers ($5/pint) and wines. Within reason, Tavern’s chefs will prepare items – such as B.L.T. and grilled cheese sandwiches – not on the menu. This neighborhood spot features brick walls and a fireplace, plus crayons for scribbling on the paper tablecloth. Add a candlelit atmosphere and a crowd of artists and architects and you may forget whatsitsname cross the street.

Most crowded: Friday nights.

Maybe it’s the film posters on the wall, the large wooden wine cabinet at the bottom of the bar, or the oscillating ceiling fans. Then again, it might be the music, a constant stream of blues the night we were there, which is loud enough for effect but subdued enough for conversation.

We sipped a lovely Merlot and chatted as we waited for out appetizers, half- listening to the music, half-watching the dancing, flickering shadows of the ceiling fans.

Sautéed Crabcakes with Mesclun (an $8 special) was the first dish to appear. Crisp and meaty, more crab than cake, it came on a bed of fresh, mixed greens. Vegetarian Spring Rolls ($4.95) were deep-fried and crunchy, filled with carrots and cabbage. They made me want to reach for my wine.

Mussels in White Wine & Fresh Herbs ($6.95) were recommended to us by the waitress. What we got was a heaping plateful of mollusks in a mild garlic broth with big chunky lumps of tomato. We weren’t disappointed.
Hot to trot

With three hot appetizers on our palates, we were ready for something cold and zesty. Roasted Beets with Beet Greens & Arugula ($5.95) fit the bill quite nicely. Sweet and refreshing, in an oil and vinegar dressing, this dish brought our toasted taste buds back to life. We were ready for the entrees.

But not so fast. First, we had to eat our greens. ( Most entrees at Tavern on Jane come with a salad and a choice of vegetable.) Be sure to ask for the Green Goddess dressing on your salad. It’s a home specialty, a creamy, herby avocado concoction that’s reminiscent of ranch but much milder.

Half-Grilled Chicken with Natural Pan Juices ($8.95) looked like a bargain on the menu. When it appeared, with a side of crispy French fries and arugula, I though I’d gotten the best deal in town. That chicken was tender, juicy and delicious. But it was the fries that got all the attention. Someone said these fries reminded her of the kind she used to get in Coney Island 30 years ago. After that, I had to fight off my companions from picking at them. It was a losing battle.

You’d think they would have been happy with their own dishes. Like Oven roasted Herb Salmon with Lemon Beurre Blanc ($12.95). Just a little crispy on the surface, but soft and moist on the inside. And then there was the Grilled 12-ounce New York Shell Steak ($13.95). Cooked to rare perfection, it was crisp and fortifying. Everyone wanted a piece of it, which was fine with me, as it gave my French fries some respite.
A nippy touch

The only disappointment of the evening was the Ginger Marinated Mako Shark with Wasabi Mashed Potatoes and Wilted Arugula (a $15 special). It was a little dry and dull. The Wasabi Mashed Potatoes, however, were fantastic, the nippy horseradish adding a welcome spark to an otherwise uninspired platter. (Mashed, fried, or baked -they sure know how to treat their spuds in this place.)

The music was still going strong as we gathered our coats together to leave. Who is that, Steve Ray Vaughn? Asked one of my companions, as we walked out onto Jane St. I wanted to stay, hear more, maybe have another drink and answer her question. But it was getting late. I guess I’ll just have to come back.

Copyright 2000 Daily News

Tavern on Jane is a convivial, unpretentious neighborhood bar and grill.
The skewed angle of the old floor, the nicotine-laminated brick walls and ceiling, and the fireplace create a cheery, almost Dickensian image. Although the atmosphere tends to outweigh the familiar food, the menu is a reliable step above pub grub.

-Howard G. Goldberg

Copyright 2000 The New York Times Company

Such is the case at Tavern on Jane, a convivial, unpretentious neighborhood bar and grill. The skewed angle of the old floor, the nicotine-laminated brick walls and ceiling, the fireplace and the timeless characters darting back and forth create a sort of cheery Dickensian image, sideboards groaning and all the rest.

Like other old-fashioned taverns, including Walker’s in TriBeCa and Ear Inn in the SoHo, Tavern on Jane is a refuge. Regulars have their usual at the bar, and neighborhood residents grab a table and are ready to order, safe and secure as they ritualistically place their cigarette packs and lighter on the table before them.

Clearly, tobacco has a special place here, with the bar area in the large front dining room allocated to smokers. Directly in back of that is a sometimes smoky nonsmoking area, and then curling off to the side, with its own air-conditioning system, another nonsmoking room. But it’s cut off from more of the bustling areas and feels a little sterile.

Tavern feels as if it been around forever, but in fact it’s only five years old. The owners, Michael Stewart and Horton Foote Jr., the son of the writer, took over the Jane Street Seafood Café with the simple aim of creating a friendly neighborhood hangout. They’ve succeeded, and though the atmosphere tends to outweigh the familiar and unchallenging food, the menu is a reliable step above pub grub.

My favorite appetizer, grilled shrimp with sesame noodles, is big enough to be a small main course, charred shrimp, packing a mild chili punch, perched atop the noodles in a slightly sweet sesame sauce. Menu standards include crisp and meaty chicken wings with a Buffalo-style blue cheese sauce that could have used a spicier kick, a heaping platter of crunchy fried calamari and a big bowl of mussels in a tasty sauce of white whine and herbs. Of more interest are the daily specials, like excellent, meaty crab cakes with a mango salsa and a fine green salad, and a bowl of cooling gazpacho that tastes like a garden featuring ripe tomatoes.

The same is true with the main courses. Specials like a tender mildly favored lamb shank in a port wine reduction, and meaty pork chops in an applejack sauce, big enough to cover the plate, are the best bets. Otherwise, the simplest dishes are preferably, like a beefy, chewy hanger steak, fish and chips with plenty of malt vinegar, and a good, honest hamburger. Dishes like grilled yellowfin tuna steak with chive oil feel as if they belong somewhere else, and they taste that way, too.

Tavern offers a perfunctory wine list with a few decent bottles under the $25, but it’s more of a beer place, with good draft selections like Brooklyn Pennant Ale, Guinness, Boddington’s Cream Ale.

I’d skip dessert; the cakes and pies are not inspiring. But after a meal I wouldn’t mind soaking up a little more atmosphere. Maybe have something at the bar, watch a little of the game on television…

Copyright 2000 The New York Times Company